August 5, 2017

This summer I went back to Pakistan along with Bruce Normand and Billy Pearson. This time we went to the very end of the Baltoro glacier where the Gasherbrum group is located. Our Target: the unclimbed east face of GIV. 

The expedition turned out with an unexpected outc...

May 17, 2017

May 13, 2017

Agulha do Diabo with the Teresópolis crew.

March 29, 2017

In the winter of 2015 Enzo Oddo and I opened a new line on the northeast face of Abi in Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan. Here is a short video about the climb.

March 28, 2017

Heckmair Route

Marcos Costa and Bruce Normand.

Dates: From March 16th-18th. 3 days

Started hiking around 8am (off the train)

Reached the beginning of the face/climbing at 9:30/10am

Reached 1st bivy at 2:30am

Day 2 Woke up at 6:30 Set off at 8:00am

Reached ridgeline at 3am


November 11, 2016

Working on a route at your limit can be an extremely difficult project. Both mentally and physically. A lot of people think that trying a route at your limit is mostly a physical battle. You don't have enough power or endurance to do the moves or climb the route withou...

November 7, 2016

Today was our 3rd day at Oliana. It was much colder today than it was yesterday; however the sun came out for a short while during the day and that was great. I worked on one of my projects (marroncita) again today. It still feels extremely hard although I did figure o...