Marcos Costa

ATHLETE

I am a professional climber from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil currently based between Spain and China. I have been climbing for over 20 years in every climbing style; rock, ice and snow, sport climbing, bouldering, traditional climbing, ice climbing, mixed climbing, dry tooling and alpinism. I am currently a mountain guide at Lead Climb Mountaineering and Resource Center.

Drytooling:


Antimatter M11, Dark matter M11 Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan, China.

Mixed Climbing:


How to train your dragon M7 WI 6. Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan, China.

Alpine First Ascents:

Lierenfeng 5,362M Shuangqiao Valley, Sichuan, China.

Kawarani I 5,992M Garze, Sichuan, China.

Haizi Shan (Yala) 5,820M First Ascent of the West face. Bamei, Sichuan, China.

Taishan West 6,468M Minya Konka, Sichuan, China.

Baintha Artha 6,410M Choktoi, Pakistan.

NOTABLE ASCENTS AND ESTABLISHED ROUTES.

  • Winner of the Golden Carabiner award in Brazil in 2019

  • Second ascent of "Central Colouir" on the west face of Mt. Grosvenor 6,376m Sichuan, China.

  • Winner of the Golden Carabiner award in Brazil in 2018

  • Nominated for the Golden Carabiner award in Brazil in 2016/2017

  • Summited Gasherbrum II (8025M the 12th highest mountain in the world) without Oxygen and in alpine style. Without fixed ropes or sherpas.

  • First Ascent of Peak 5180 (SOLO ASCENT) in Shuangqiaogou-Sichuan. “Speed Indeed” 580Meters 70o M3 5.8

  • First Ascent of Southwest face of Eagle Rock (SOLO ASCENT) in Shuangqiaogou-Sichuan “Invisible Hand”650Meters 5.10+ and “Invisible Hand-Sit Start” 330Meters A2+ 5.12- (This climb earned me a nomination to the most prestigious climbing Award Piolet D’Or in 2014)

  • First Ascent of Patagonian Werewolves in Aiguille Guillaume-Patagonia, Argentina. 400Me- ters 30o 5.11d A1

  • Climbing development for Kailas “Rock and Road” in 2013. Earned Golden Rhino award in 2014

  • Development of several routes in Geutu, Guizhou for the Petzl Roctrip. Biggest climbing event in Asia up to date. Highlights include “Nihao Wokepa” a 5 pitch 5.13b route.

Others include:

Montblanc, Montblanc du tacul, Le Dru, Aguille du Midi, Grand Capucin and La Tour Ronde in Chamonix, France.

Climbing Accomplishments

Sport Climbing- 5.13d Kyparissi, Greece
Ice Climbing- WI 6 Cogne, Italy,

Bouldering- V10 Rocklands, South Africa
Mixed Climbing/Dry Tooling- M11 Sichuan, China

Traditional Climbing- 5.13a Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Media and Publications

Montagnes Magazine (France)

Outside Magazine (China)

Alpinist Magazine (China)

Urban Climber (USA)

DPM Mag (USA online publication)

Grimper Magazine (France)

Gory Magazine (Poland)

Kailasgears.com

Petzl.com

Alpinist.com

rockandice.com

Petzlroctrip China (Film)

Petzlroctrip Argentina (Film)

The Elusive Summit (Film)

Patagonia Vertical Guidebook (Argentina)

Alpine Climbing
Rock Climbing